Category Archives: France

2010 Louis Latour Chameroy Beaujolais-Villages

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Here we have a great little Beaujolais from Louis Latour. We haven’t covered any of his wines yet on the blog but he’s a very well known negociant in Burgundy. This is a Beaujolais-Villages which means the grapes were selected from certain villages with higher quality than a regular Beaujolais. The result is a more full bodied and flavorful wine that will have more structure than a standard Beaujolais.

Being a Beaujolais-Villages this will stand up to a medium meal nicely and you can pick one of these bottles up for about $15. We had it with sausage, peppers, and onions.

colonelgrape: 92. This was the best bottle of Beaujolais I’ve ever had. That’s not saying a whole lot but I’ve had some bad ones in the past. It had a nice medium body with a deep garnet color. It tasted of red fruit with good acid and very mild tannins…fuller bodied than a regular Beaujolais. I would definitely recommend this bottle if you like Beaujolais…it’s a great wine to keep around for a night where you want wine but don’t want to break the bank.

MobyGrape: 90*.  I gave this one an astersisk for the record books not because of any potential steroid shenanigans that could taint its record, but quite frankly I didn’t write this review soon enough and forgot the finer points of this wine other than it was really good.  I worked late this night and came home like a ravenous thirsty beast.  Thankfully, the Colonel had sausage, peppers, and onions waiting for me with an open bottle of this puppy.  I guzzled a couple glasses of it, and when I finally came up for air I realized it was really tasty, but I wasn’t quite sure what I actually tasted.  I even had the rest the next day with the intention of paying attention but sure enough I saw the glass and *chug*, it was gone.  Oops, I did it again.

2003 Saint Cosme Saint-Joseph

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Saint-Joseph is an appellation in the Northern Rhone Valley that grows Syrah. It’s kind of an odd appellation in that it’s very long and narrow on the West bank of the Rhone river. It is the second largest appellation in Northern Rhone second only to Crozes-Hermitage. Saint-Joseph is frequently compared to Crozes-Hermitage in wine style and it’s easy to see why…they grow the same grapes and are in a similar region, albeit on opposite sides of the river.

The odd geography of the appellation leads to inconsistency of the wines…but not necessarily in a bad way. Classic Saint-Joseph comes from the southern part of the region while the wines from the north may taste very different as the terrior of the appellation changes. The wines of Saint-Joseph were described to me like a “mild version of Crozes-Hermitage” and are often thought of as wines to drink while waiting for Cote-Rotie and Hermitage wines to mature.

With their mild nature they drink well young but excellent examples are worthy of cellaring such as the 2003 we had the other night. This is a $50 bottle from Vin Bin’s fine and rare December collection. We enjoyed it with veal osso buco, rice, and vegetables:

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If you’ve never tried osso buco and you’re a meat lover you are missing out. It’s tender, flavorful, and very interesting. Also if you have a dog they will swim across the ocean and back for one of the shank bones…seriously they absolutely love them.

colonelgrape: 93. I really enjoyed this wine. We decanted it for about 45 minutes to let it open up and It was a nice ruby color, full bodied with flavors of red fruit and leather. Definitely not as bold as Cote-Rotie wines but you could tell it was Syrah. If you have a bottle of this drink it now, I don’t see it getting any better with more aging.

MobyGrape: 90. This one decanted for a while, so I was ready to dive in and see what was going on, I figured all the riff raff would be out by the time I stuck my schnozz in it.  I went to give it a good whiff and immediately was transported to the dump in the town I grew up in.  If you’ve never been to a dump before, you’re missing out, and if you have, you know it has a very distinct odor.  It just smells…different.  Then I tasted it and thought those salivary glands in the lower corners of my mouth were going to explode.  I’m told that’s acid.  At this point you’re probably thinking my rating was a typo.  In that weird journey that wines take in the glass however, the dumpy smell mostly went away and so did the cheek-shattering acidity and it mellowed out and became a drier, tart wine that tasted quite nice.  Like the knight guarding the Holy Grail in Indiana Jones, he was all old and fierce looking at first, then he drops his sword when he’s trying to swing it and you realize he’s just a kind old man doing his job and he recognizes Indy’s a pretty good guy after all.  Am I saying I’m like Indiana Jones?  I’m not saying that I’m not.  Who doesn’t enjoy a good archealogical adventure?  Isn’t that what wine tasting is all about anyways?  With every sip you’re tasting a wet little piece of the past.  This wine was from 2003.  It will never happen again.  None of the wines you drink will ever happen again.  Except for that Beaujolais Nouveau crap, that’s just unnatural and will probably continue to be crap until the end of time.  Regardless, I got to be a part of what these people were doing at that time, in that place, during those exact conditions in which these grapes grew.  Whoa.

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Reserve

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Happy New Years from Grapestorm! This year on New Year’s Eve I picked up a bottle of Nicholas Feuillatte Brut Reserve Champagne on the way home from skiing. There’s a lot to cover when talking about Champagne:

In order for a wine to be called Champagne it must come from Champagne, France. All other sparkling wines world wide may not be called Champagne technically…although many people make that mistake on a regular basis. Champagne located north of Burgundy and East of Alsace.

Champagne is typically made with a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. You might be wondering how they make white wine with a red wine grape but the secret is how they press the grapes. They press them gently and separate the juice from the skins during fermentation therefore yielding a white wine. There are other varietals allowed in Champagne but they are rarely used: Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Meunier.

Some versions of Champagne are made entirely from one grape or another. Blanc de Noirs refers to wine made from red grapes (Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier) while Blanc de Blanc refers to wines made from 100% Chardonnay. Rose Champagne is made by either a) allowing skin contact during fermentation or b) simply adding still (non-sparkling) Pinot Noir to the mixture. In fact Champagne is one of the only regions that allows Rose production by addition of wine and not skin contact.

This leads to another important fact about Champagne: There aren’t vintages on the bottles. Almost all Champagne is produced by mixing grapes from various vintages. Producers are more concerned with consistency rather than having a unique wine from year to year. This is one of the reasons they may add still Pinot Noir to produce Rose rather than gamble with skin exposure as that may come out different year to year. There are exceptions to this rule though and every so often there is a spectacular vintage a Millesime is declared and producers will bottle and label  their wines with only grapes from that vintage. These wines are expected to be of higher quality and warrant cellaring where regular Champagne is meant to be consumed immediately.

The label will tell you whether you’re buying a sweet or dry Champagne:

Brute Nature (no sugar added)

Extra Brut

Brut

Extra Dry

Dry

Demi-Sec

Doux (Sweet)

The most common variety you’ll find on the shelf is Brut. Also important is that many producers are known for making different styles ranging from light to medium to full bodied wines. Unfortunately the only way to know what you’re buying is to learn the producers or ask for help at the store.

Lastly, let’s talk about how to properly open a bottle of Champagne. We always see in the movies or on TV people popping open the bottle, cork goes flying, and fizz erupting from the bottle. That’s not how you do it….all that fizz/foam is wasted bubbles and wine! Here’s how to do it properly: First step is to remove enough of the foil to expose the wire net. Carefully remove the wire while maintaining pressure on the cork. While holding the cork rotate the bottle in your hand at an angle to gently ease out the cork. While it may not be as glamorous and fun…this will prevent cork missiles, flat, and wasted wine.

Champagne is meant to be served chilled just like other white wines. The classic method is an ice bath of 50% mix of ice/water for 20-30 minutes. However here at the Grape household we like to get creative sometimes. Since we don’t drink Champagne often we don’t have an ice bucket so I made my own while Moby was still at work. I took a gallon water contained, cut off the top, and voila…instant ice bucket.

colonelgrape: 81. I’m not a huge Champagne fan, most bottles just don’t do it for me. It has 2 strikes against it before I even open a bottle: I don’t like Chardonnay or carbonated beverages too much. That being said I can appreciate a good bottle when I taste one and nothing says celebration like Champagne. This bottle was definitely on the dry side of Brut but it was still fun. Moby definitely enjoys her bubbly more than I do but for New Year’s, a wedding, a Birthday, or a major accomplishment no drink does it better. If you’re looking for a light-medium body Brut Champagne you’ll do well with this $35 Nicolas Feuillatte. Personally I think I’d be happier with a dry or demi-sec to cut the Chardonnay flavor a bit.

MobyGrape: 80.  I’ll be the first to admit, I do enjoy a nice glass of the bubbly.  There’s just something about drinking a glass of champagne (or sparkling wine, if you’re a snob like the Colonel) that makes you feel happy and fancy.  Even if you’re drinking it while in your pajamas eating pizza, (not that I’ve ever done that) you feel like you’re a Bond girl.  This was definitely a drier champagne which isn’t really my style, however it didn’t stop me from drinking 3/4 of the bottle because it still had a nice flavor.  If you want something sweeter though, steer clear.  Happy new year to me!

2011 Louis Jadot Macon-Villages

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For our main course we had alfredo with salmon and peas which came out excellent. We served the 2011 Louis Jadot Macon-Villages. This is an un-oaked Chardonnay from the Maconnais in Burgundy. It’s well documented that we aren’t huge Chardonnay fans here on Grapestorm but there are so many different regions producing different types Chardonnay that it’s our duty to try them all. Maconnais is known for its un-oaked Chardonnay just like Chablis but with a different flavor profile due to geography.

Just like in other French regions there are levels of wine:

Macon: Basic appellation that can be used for any Maconnais wine.

Macon-Villages

Macon + Village Name

Pouilly-Fuisee

Pouilly-Fuisse is the highest end wine made in Maconnais and will fetch a hefty price. I’ve been told that a simple Macon-Villages is often a much better value at anywhere from $8-$15 with a reputable Pouly Fuisse costing upwards of $50.

MobyGrape: 70.  In the immortal words of someone very dear to me, “Is this supposed to be good?”.  Another chardonnay I didn’t really enjoy, this one was just very, very mild and light, if I were trying to sell it to you I would call it “crisp and refreshing”.  If I were being honest I’d call it well-hydrated rat piss.  Still drank it though, since we were eating a delicious dinner with it and it was so barely-there it didn’t really matter one way or the other.

colonelgrape: 70. I completely agree with Moby on this one. A very light, mild, fruity, and young un-oaked Chardonnay. It came as advertised I just don’t really like it…it’s too boring. I definitely prefer this to oaked Chardonnay, that’s for sure, but I’m just not a fan. If I want a white with a bigger meal I’m having a Gewurztraminer or even a simple Picpoul/Sauv Blanc/Riesling over a Chardonnay.

2010 Hugel Gentil

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Our friend from California was in town for the Holidays and we invited him over for dinner and some wine pre-holiday ski trip. Our meal started off with shrimp cocktail, goat cheese, and crackers along with the 2010 Hugel Gentil.

Gentil is a blend of “Noble Grapes” from Alsace. The blend contains the following grapes: Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Sylvaner, and Muscat. The idea is to showcase certain strengths of each grape in an all around wine that has been made in Alsace for centuries. This is a much older blend and isn’t really regulated like other French wines, it’s just been reintroduced to the market relatively recently. Therefore while it should contain at least 50% of the grapes mentioned it may actually contain other grape varietals as well.

Now that we are thoroughly confused….here’s what we thought:

colonelgrape: 70. Meh. I was expecting something more exciting from this blend but all I tasted was a slightly dressed up Pinot Gris. I couldn’t taste any Gewurztraminer spice, Riesling sweetness, or Muscat grapiness. Maybe it was heavy on the Pinot Gris this vintage? Regardless it wasn’t terrible but it wasn’t as advertised. I’m not a fan but for $10 it’s hard to be upset…it did it’s job with the appetizers just not that well.

MobyGrape: 74. The bottle looked pretty cool, but it looked better than it tasted.  When I heard the blend of grapes I was ready to drink something sweeter (it’s highly probable that I tuned out after hearing riesling though).  Turns out that was not the case, and this wasn’t sweet at all.  I thought all these were supposed to be sweeter wines?  Why did you lie to me riesling?  Fine to pair with the night’s appetizers but I don’t know if I’d go out of my way to have it again.  Better than chardonnay, but that’s not saying much coming from me.